FEEDING AND AFTER CARE

  • Roses are gross feeders. As well as having manure added at preparation time they like an annual mulch after the spring pruning and a good sprinkling of a general fertiliser (James uses good old Growmore)
  • A further application of fertiliser should be applied at the end of June to encourage a second flush of growth and flowering.
James also expressed his regret that there are no longer any rose beds at Harlow Carr Botanical Gardens. However, a 'stunning spectacle with over 3000 roses on display, complemented by a rich variety of companion plants' can be seen at The Gardens of the Rose - the flagship gardens of the Royal National Rose Society, in St. Albans, Hertfordshire. Well worth a visit, maybe to implement another great tip, to choose roses not from a pretty picture in a catalogue, but from what you have witnessed growing before your very eyes, so you can judge growth habit and size as well.
For further information please contact the Royal National Rose Society, Chiswell Green, St Albans, Hertfordshire, AL2 3NL. (Tel: 01727 850461)

Following on with the theme that there is more to gardening than growing fuchsias our February speaker was Mr. Terry Morris from Rochdale to give us an insight in the world of 'Growing Gladioli', or as we quickly learned 'glads'!  A few years ago Terry created a new allotment from a car park, which made the headlines in Garden News etc. as a Victorian Street lay hidden underneath it and had to be removed, turning a day long job into an expensive week long task for the council.
The most informative talk was illustrated throughout by good quality slides, showing us some beautiful exhibition gladioli at various national shows (Drama and Tendresse two varieties that caught the eye) but also many shots of the growing season in progress.
As with so many speakers it was obviously a labour of love for Terry, his enthusiasm shone through. Though we might prefer to lavish such attention on our beloved fuchsias we can admire people having the same dedication for their chosen subject. We should grow what we like and enjoy it, that is what it is all about. Besides there should be room in our gardens for more than fuchsias and as Terry pointed out glads look really nice in herbaceous borders. Planted in small groups or as dot plants e.g. in a cloud of gypsophila they are certainly an asset to any garden.

Terry took us though the growing season and stressed the importance of looking well after the corms - yes, corms, not bulbs. The difference is that while bulbs e.g. daffodils increase in size and then divide, a corm replaces itself with a new corm each year. Little cormlets will also form at the base of the new corm which are detached and can be grown on to reach flowering size in two to five  years.
After flowering leave for six weeks, then loosen the soil and pull up. Cut foliage about 2" above corm. You will have a new corm, old corm, cormlets and small stalk. Put into trays to dry off for a couple of weeks. Remove soil and cormlets. Leave to dry out avoiding damp atmosphere. After a few weeks a corky layer will form between the new and the old corm. Try to twist the old corm and roots off. It will be easily done with just a quick twist, if it does not give, wait and try again later. Do it as soon as possible though as it will be difficult to do if left too long. After cleaning dust with sulphur.

In December inspect and snap the heads off. Ideal storing conditions are in shallow trays or mesh bags in a room with good air circulation and temperatures between 38°F and 48°F. 50% humidity is preferred, but dryer conditions and temperatures a little warmer are tolerated.  If you have ordered corms, unpack corms on arrival, and take the husk off, check for disease - healthy corms are 'absolutely solid'. Label and set out to sprout. This leads to the formation of nodules at the base of the corm, which will sprout roots as soon as it goes into the ground, very important as otherwise the corm may rot in cold soil. Remove all but the strongest shoot. (However, more shoots are usually left on for the smaller flowering primulinus group)  continued

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