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OVERWINTERING
Fuchsias are in fact deciduous perennial shrubs that will normally shed their leaves as the temperature falls during the autumn and then naturally have a period of dormancy during the winter. Though, with the aid of artificial heating the period of dormancy is greatly reduced by the enthusiast exhibitor there is still a lot to be said for letting nature take its natural course.
The basic requirements for overwintering fuchsias are:
Plants need to be kept frost free at all times
Compost must be kept slightly moist but never be allowed to dry out completely.
According to stipulations we can divide our fuchsias into four groups:
Hardy Fuchsias, those that are permanently planted out in the open ground
Mature Fuchsias grown in pots and baskets with ripened, woody growth
Young plants, with soft green growth, grown on the biennial system
Triphylla types
A) Hardy Fuchsias, those that are permanently planted out in the open ground in the garden, need very little attention in preparation for their winter rest.
Tidy up the plants somewhat by only pruning back excessive and straggly growth, but do not cut back hard. The top growth should be left on to give a little added protection against frost. If pruned the short hollow stems that remain will collect water which could result to severe frost damage.
The crowns of the plants can be protected by mulching with spent compost, straw, leaves, bark or leafmould and/or drawing up garden soil, an excellent insulator.
Plants that have been in situ for a number of years will have a substantial rootsystem, which will be deep enough down to be well protected. (In a 'normal' winter frost seldom penetrates the soil more than a few inches here at the coast in Scarborough. However, once every ten years or so a severe winter occurs and as we never know when it will strike we had better be prepared every time!).
Newly planted hardy fuchsias or fuchsias used as summer bedding which you are going to take a chance with, will need some extra attention. The first winter when the root system is still relatively near the soil surface is critical. Better make sure you are extra generous with the mulching material for these plants and check occasionally during the winter that it is still in place. Blackbirds especially have the habit of dislodging the carefully built mulching piles in the hunt for juicy worms, scattering it all over. The wind too can play havoc with the light loose material such as leaves and straw.
Normally, depending on the severity of the winter, most if not all of the top growth will be cut down by frost. New growth (on which the new season blooms will form) will develop from the base of the plants or from well below soil level in spring. The right time for removing the old dead wood is therefore in late spring, after all danger of frosts has gone, cutting back to just above soil level.
Some varieties, especially the magellanicas, often have 'green' wood, sprouting new growth all along its branches, several feet above soil level. If you have room for a very large bush it can be pruned back less severely. Though beware, some plants (mag alba!) can are quite vigorous and can attain considerable height if not pruned back hard.
B) Mature Fuchsias grown in pots and baskets with ripened woody growth, including those deemed to be hardy need to be kept frost-free during the winter.
Prepare your plants and ripening the wood (to slow down the sap) by standing plants outdoors in a light airy area in September and reduce watering.
Allow plants to defoliate. Naturally, by letting nature take its course as the first light autumn frost takes care of doing this for you, usually sometime during October. Or, remove the foliage the tedious way, stripping the plants down manually. Tedious yes, but ever so important to do. With the leaves you also remove the last traces of pests and diseases that otherwise could be harboured on the undersides of the foliage and set off an unwelcome outbreak at the onset of spring. You will also be able to put the plants closer together, won't have to worry about falling yellowing leaves that could aid botrytis, and you can see the compost surface better, facilitating watering.
Prune plants back by about a third just above a node, this is usually a couple of leaf joints above the last stop. Do this when the sap has slowed down. Do not cut back too hard to avoid die-back. If excessive bleeding should occur the pruning cuts can be sealed with (clear) nailpolish, copydex or a proprietary sealing compound.
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