• Spray or dip plants using a combined, compatible, fungicide/insecticide mix.
  • Place in a frost free place.
Summer bedders need to be dug up carefully and left to dry out a little under cover. Then the roots are trimmed back to the original rootball so it fits the pot again and proceed as above.

C) Young plants, with soft green growth, grown on the biennial system  need to be kept in a heated greenhouse.

  • It is imperative that not too much heat is given during the wintermonths when light levels are low. From November to February 2-5°C (35-40°F) is perfectly adequate., will do nicely for the cost-conscience grower - an increase by 5°F will double the cost!)  (40°F in November/December increasing to 45°F in March/April is the favoured regime of many growers). It certainly is no good at all providing excessive heat before light levels naturally increase in spring as it will only lead to weak, long jointed growth.
  • As well as heat and good light (keep windows spic and span!) fresh air is vitally important. Ventilate freely  whenever weather conditions are suitable and that is actually most days!!
  • Plants need of course the normal regular attention. Turn every few days to ensure even growth. Check for watering and keep slightly moist. Inspect plants regularly for first signs of pests and diseases - prevention is better than cure. (So much easier to deal with a few minor mites - just rub out with fingers and thumb - than having an infestation on your hands in spring.) Allow adequate space around each plants to assist airflow and bearing in mind that your greenhouse should not be to crammed now, as the plants will roughly double in size and space will be needed by spring.

D) triphylla types are considered to be more tender but mature plants can be safely overwintered in a dormant state at a temperature of 2-5°C (35-40°F)
  • In the Autumn follow the normal routine of reducing watering, cut back by approx. one third, remove remaining foliage, spray or dip in fungicide/insecticide mixture.
  • Compost needs to be kept just moist, not wet. Check occasionally to make sure they are not drying out.
  • In spring move to light position and prune the upright varieties back hard to about 10cm (4"), trailing not quite as severe maintaining well shaped framework.
However a better succes rate seems to be achieved .(and preferred by exhibitors)by overwintering tryphyllas in semi-dormant state.
  • In August/September cut back hard to about 10cm (4") of compost surface.
  • Lay plants on their sides in a sheltered position. A damp gravel bench is ideal for this. Being on their sides encourages formation of more shoots on the lower parts of the old wood - spraying this old wood occasionally will assist to keep this soft to ensure even more growth.
  • After a few weeks, when sufficient growth shows, and before first frost, place plants, upright again, in greenhouse in good light
  • Minimum temperature of 5°C (40°F) needs to be maintained, increasing to 7°C (45°F) in February when light levels naturally increase. Avoid excessive heat - combined with insufficient light it leads to weak, leggy growth.
  • Water plants regularly to keep just moist and feed occasionally with diluted high nitrogen fertilizer.
Young plants of course need a higher temperature than the older ones and should be kept going through the first winter just ticking over at C (40°F) or even  better, especially if you took autumn cuttings, actively growing (though slowly) at 7°C (45°F)

You can of course place these plants in a propagator or partition off a section of a small section of your greenhouse to maintain the higher temperature for them.

Suitable overwintering places:
Garage, shed, or outbuilding
Line thick cardboard or wooden boxes with polystyrene tiles or old packing, etc, or better still use a box within a bigger box with a gap of approx. 10cm all round, including the bottom. Fill the cavity with insulating material such as polysterene sheeting or granules, old blankets or carpet, fleece. straw or scrunched up newspaper.
Line inner boxes with polythene. Place just moist plants closely together in boxes and fill in with moist peat. Plants can be placed upright, but I found I could get so much more in each box by placing them on their sides. Do check over a few times during the winter months, though I admit I didn't bother doing this when I was using this method and survival rate was still pretty good. It will of course depend very much on how well you are able to judge  the 'moist' and 'just moist' of the rootball and the peat you are filling in with. If rootballs dry out plants will die. If

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