surrounding peat is wet botrytis and rot will occur. So, to be on the safe side, especially if doing this for the first year, it is better to take the time to perform the periodical checks!!
If placed in garage or shed, remember that the floor is the coldest place. So store well raised and away from the outside walls. Temperatures in garages, sheds etc. are likely to fall to below freezing at some stage during the winter but the box method should provide good protection. However, an eye should be kept on the weather forecast and during excessive cold period added protection can be provided by covering the box (or pile of boxes!) with several layers of extra insulation by way of fleece, old carpet, blankets, etc.
Room or Attic in your House
The above box method can be used if storing in attic or other  room (the coolest room really is best) in your house, as in their dormant state the plants do not need light until the growing cycle restarts in spring. Be sure to protect your carpet though. Again occasionally check and water if necessary.
Unheated Greenhouse
The box method can be used here as well.
Alternatively plants can be stood or  just laid on their sides under the staging and covered with moist peat - a generous layer of approx 20cm to provide adequate insulation. Again be vigilent, should severe frosts be forecast take additional precotions and provide added protection with extra fleece, blankets, carpet or newspapers.  Again it is prudent to check plants occasionally.
It is also possible to just leave your plants on the bench, or have the insulated boxes open on the bench, and cover with fleece, blankets, carpet or newspapers during cold spells. It is easier to see if plants need watering, but also not quite as foolproof as you might misjudge the weather and be caught out by a snappy frost. It is after all so easily done, to just forget to put the covering on occasionally. 
Don't forget that dormant plants ought to be kept cool. On sunny winter days temperature can rise quite dramatically in small greenhouses, so beware and ventilate freely on fine days.
Insulating greenhouse with bubbly plastic is quite popular. It certainly will provide extra protection but has the distinct disadvantage of cutting out a lot of light and causing problems with condensation. The exxesive humidity can lead to increased botrytis problems. Cold and wet kills!!  Great care needs to be taken to provide adequate ventilation.Some people are now experimenting with using the bubbly plastic on the outside to overcome the condensation problem.
Cold Frame
Provide insulation all round by lining with polysterene sheets, old carpet etc. and good layer of peat on the bottom. Or place plant well away from walls and fill the gap with straw, leaves, fleece, etc.  Plants can again be left upright or placed on their sides. Frames should be left slightly open, exceptt on very cold days. During really frosty spells additional protection needs to be provided by covering the whole frame, drapping it over the sides as well, with carpet, sacks, blankets etc. Again the plants need to be checked occasionally especially to avoid drying out.
Heated Greenhouse
As explained in main text, with the exception of young plants and plants grown on the biennial system, 2-5°C (35-40°F) is perfectly adequate. The dormant plants are, after all, supposed to be resting.
Plants can be left on the staging and are easily accessible, so you can inspect regularly for pests (the odd aphid) and diseases (botrytis). It is vitally important that regular checks are made to ensure plants do not dry out, at least once a week. More plants die from drying out than are killed by frost. Use tepid water.
Trench in your Garden
Soil water level determines whether this is an option. If your soil is well drained dig  out a trench about 50cm deep. Place plant on their sides in the trench.  Carefully back fill the soil working it in between the stems. Make sure you have at least 15cm of soil above the plants. To provide extra protection, or in case your trench wasn't deep enough, you can build up a mould of soil over it. This might also help you to keep track of where you have buried them!

STANDARDS As it has takes such a long time to get a good standard going it would be such a shame to loose it.  Mature standards can be overwintered just like any other mature fuchsia (see section C), even in the trench in the garden. Some fuchsia folks swear by laying them on their sides, so sap will more readily run to the head, but others just keep them upright. If laid on their side,  don't forget to turn them occasionally as otherwise the sides might not develop evenly.
However, if possible standards should be overwintered semi-dormant with a little heat to reduce the risk of it not breaking evenly in spring. Another school of thought to minimise loses is to keep standards (and other mature large structures) going in green leaf throughout the winter.